Monday, August 31, 2015

Yemen Yums

One of the great things about the town where we live is that there are so many foreign workers who bring their delicious food to Saudi Arabia. We love to eat bukhari from Afghanistan, and frequent the Pakistani naan place at least once a month. There is also a delicious Indian food place near our compound, which has better food than what we ate in India! 

This past weekend we went out for breakfast at a place called Vitamin (or feetameen if you are sounding it out in Arabic), which sells Yemeni food. One of Brian's coworkers had taken him to this restaurant a few weeks ago for breakfast after working the night shift. Vitamin is a small shop on a busy street; most people passing by probably wouldn't give it a second glance. 

Apparently this says Vitamin!
Many restaurants in Saudi Arabia are segregated--single men sit on one side, and families or women without their husbands sit on the other. They have separate entrances, and the two sections are usually divided by a wall or they are on separate floors.  It is always a little unclear, however, what we're supposed to do when we try to eat at a restaurant that does not have a designated family section. Once, we tried to go to an Arabic food place without a family section, and I was stopped at the door by a man who wagged his finger at me.  We took our food to go. However, the last two times we've tried new places, I've been (somewhat) welcomed in. This was the case for our Yemeni breakfast place. 

We walked into Vitamin and the men working saw Brian and started screaming "Amreeki Amreeki!" which is the Arabic word for American. We're not sure if they remembered him from the last time or if they just assumed we were American, but either way they were really excited to see us. 

We walked up to the counter and were given an "English" menu full of things like mexique shakshouka and Uou.S.A (no clue). Their lack of English speaking ability combined with their intense desire to make sure we enjoyed our meal led the men working to call in another man from off the street, who knew key vocabulary words like eggs and spicy.  He helped us order.

These scribbles mean we're getting something good!
We ordered a number of different dishes, each more delicious than the last. First up was a falafel sandwich. Though we probably could have done without it (we ordered SO much other food), the price was right at just about $0.50. I particularly enjoyed the smattering of French fries on the sandwich, as is typical in this area of the world. Not so typical was the entire sliced hard boiled egg, but we were there at breakfast time... 

A substantial falafel sandwich for only 50 cents!
Next was fasoulia, which consisted of very finely chopped scrambled eggs mixed with spicy beans, then baked until a nice crust formed on top. It was served with an enormous warm flatbread, which somehow managed to be both soft and crusty at the same time. 

Eggs + Beans = Delicious Breakfast

Biggest flatbread ever!
Finally, we had masoub, which is one of the things Brian raved about after going to Vitamin with his coworker. It is made up of bananas, bread, honey, and probably a lot of other good stuff, and has the texture of oatmeal with a taste similar to banana bread. 

This was the bomb!  So good!
As we were eating, one of the workers came around and brought us a cup of tea. Or was it coffee? He didn't know enough English to tell us anything except that it was free. Remarkably, it tasted like Louisiana sweet tea, only hot, and with a slight flavor of cardamom. I shudder to think of how much sweetened condensed milk went into it to turn it that color, but it was definitely worth the calories. 

Coffee?  Tea?  It didn't matter, it was amazing

Total cost of breakfast (including 2 bottles of water):  $7
Sitting in a restaurant in Saudi NOT in the family section:  priceless 

I do what I want




Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Turkey: Everywhere Else

In June, Brian and I took a 2 week trip to Turkey.  We were in Istanbul for a few days, seeing all the historical sites, window shopping at the bazaars, and eating all the delicious food.  We ended our time in Istanbul with dinner at a restaurant that featured around 20 mezes and unlimited beer and wine (not to mention an entree and dessert).

I feel full just looking at this picture

After departing Istanbul, we started our journey around the coast of Turkey.  Our first stop was a city called Kusadasi, where we visited the ancient city of Ephesus, the House of the Virgin Mary, and the Temple of Artemis, then spent a free day at a local waterpark.



Brian in the Gate of Hercules
In front of the Library of Celsus
Ephesus!  It was so much hotter in June than it was in April!
Great Theater in Ephesus
At the Temple of Artemis, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, which was pretty much just a swampy field.
Our beautiful hotel in Kusadasi, taken from our awesome balcony
We enjoyed this infinity pool overlooking the Aegean Sea

We left Kusadasi and headed inland, to a very small town called Pamukkale.  In Turkish, Pamukkale means cotton castle.  This town is famous for these terraces made from travertine, which is hardened calcium carbonate.  Though it looks like snow and ice, it's actually rock and includes hot springs! 

Cotton castle!
Brian at Pamukkale
Enjoying the warm spring water!

After leaving Pamukkale, we headed back to the coast to a town called Fethiye.  We had a free day to explore this cute little town, so we booked a jeep tour to take us to Saklikent Gorge, tubing, and to a mud bath.  The gorge was fed with snowmelt, and it was the coldest water I've ever experienced in my life!  A few parts had super strong currents, including one area that was chest deep and you had to traverse with a rope!  Though our tubing trip was short, it was really fun (though we tried really hard to not get splashed in that freezing water).  After tubing, our group went to a giant pit of mud for a mud bath.  The tour guides made sure that mud covered us literally from head to toe.  It didn't occur to me until halfway through that we'd have to rinse off in the frigid ice water! 

Unfortunately we didn't realize until we were on the day tour that our waterproof camera was busted.  Google it if you want to see pictures of the gorge.

The next day we boarded our gulet (boat), which would be our home for the next 3 days, until we reached the city of Antalya.  We made several stops along the way and met some really interesting people while enjoying traditional Turkish food aboard the boat. 

Pulling away from the dock in Fethiye
Hiking in Butterfly Valley with a swimsuit coverup and water shoes.
Our cute little gulet!
A visit from the gözleme boat!  Gözleme is a traditional Turkish flatbread filled with either sweet or savory ingredients (very similar to crepes and rotis).  We had one with nutella and bananas!  So yum!
A stop at St. Nicholas Island (Santa Claus Island!) with beautiful Byzantine ruins
They also had wild oregano all over the island!
The oregano smelled so good!
From the top of St. Nicholas Island

Meanwhile, back on the gulet...
The next day we stopped at an adorable little town called Kas (pronounced like cash)
One of these guys got my foot!
Unfortunately I was in a summer class and had a bit of schoolwork to do!
Another stop:  Simena Island, with a castle on top!
Wild pomegranates growing everywhere!
On the top of the island.  That water was a ridiculous color!!!
Captain let Brian drive the boat for a minute
Brian did this a lot while on our cruise
Also a lot of this
We were surprised to find out that our cabin onboard did not have a fan or air conditioning.  After a few restless hours of sleep the first night, we decided to move up to the deck and sleep under the stars.  That's where we slept the next 2 nights as well... MUCH cooler and more comfortable.

After disembarking in Antalya, we had a free day to explore the city.  We met up with two new friends from our cruise, John and Katie, and took 3 forms of public transportation to get to the ruins of Termessos.  Termessos was an ancient city built on the side of a mountain, and we spent a few hours hiking around the site.

Ancient dragonfly of Termessos!
These creepy looking bugs were all over
Some ruins in Termessos
John, Katie, and Brian doing some exploring. 
Termessos was cool because there were so many undisturbed objects there!
The highlight of Termessos was the enormous theater with spectacular views of the valley below
Katie wanted to stand in the window of the theater, so then we all had to try.  Shorty over here had a little trouble.
Made it in the window!
View from the theater window
King Brian on his throne
Hooray for Termessos!

We left Antalya and headed for our last stop, Cappadocia.  Since it was a long drive, we stopped halfway at a school for whirling dervishes at a place called Konya.  It was a little confusing and I'm still not quite sure what they're all about, but you can read about it here if you want. 

Disclosure:  I took this picture in Istanbul, not in Konya.  There were no dervishes doing any whirling at the whirling dervish school.  They did feed us good lunch though.

We finally arrived in Cappadocia, the last stop on our tour of Turkey, before heading back to Istanbul and then Saudi Arabia.  Cappadocia is famous for it's unique topography, made up of "fairy chimneys" formed from volcanic ash.  We stayed in a cave hotel, which we thought was really cool and unique, until we realized that basically all of the hotels there were cave hotels.  It was still fun (though it smelled like a cave).  We enjoyed Cappadocia a lot!

Our cave hotel room!
View from our cave
Even the restaurants were in caves
The highlight of any trip to Cappadocia is a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the fairy chimneys
Seeing the landscape from above was breathtaking
There were SO many hot air balloons
Getting ready to land outside this cute little town

A celebratory drink upon landing (mostly juice with the tiniest splash of champagne)
The wishing tree in Cappadocia
On a tour in Cappadocia
The mushroom shaped fairy chimneys...
More super phallic mushrooms

No good tour is complete without a stop where they make local products.  In Turkey we were taken to a place where they sold polished stone, another gemstone shop, and of course, a rug shop.  Usually this is my least favorite part of the tour, but we did stop at a pottery place in Cappadocia where they let me try to make my own pottery!


It is a lot harder than it looks!  And messy!  They gave me these cool pants to wear to protect my clothes.
My really shitty bowl/plate/blob of clay


Turkey was a wonderful place to vacation!  There is so much more to Turkey than just Istanbul (though I did love Istanbul!).  I enjoyed the beauty of the landscape, the kindness of the people, all the interesting history, and oh, did I mention the food?  :)  Hope you enjoyed this 2 part blog post about our trip to Turkey!